Due to our somewhat tight schedule, we had planned on only staying in Veliko Tarnovo one night. We were going to visit the fortress and wander around town. But when we got to our room at the Hotel Comfort and looked at the view from our balcony of the valley below, the fortress, and town, we thought, “what if we stay two nights?” And that’s what we did.
We walked over to the Tsaravets Fortress in the afternoon and paid 6BGN per person for a ticket. The surrounding ruins are more expansive than we originally thought. We went into the church at the center and then wandered the ruins for another hour or so. We also inquired on how to reach the other fortress, Trapezitsa, across the river. We were told that it was not open to the public right now, so we just admired it from afar.
We spent two wonderful days wandering the town. We had dinner at the somewhat famous restaurant called Shtastlivetsa. While I am usually skeptical of TripAdvisor recommendations, this one lived up to all of its reviews and the local hype. The menu was ridiculously extensive and our food was very delicious. Although it would be considered expensive compared to other options, it was totally worth it. We ordered one beer, one glass of wine, pork medallions with cheese and mushroom sauce, and risotto and the total bill was only 30BGN.
After dinner, we wandered farther down the main road away from the fortress and turned down a small road toward a few bars. We picked one at random (the location coordinates are 43.083808,25.635271). There was a European league volleyball game on TV that everyone seemed really focused on so we joined in watching. We each grabbed two drinks (12BGN total) and while we tried to blend in, we definitely got called out as Amerikanskies when I asked why they didn’t serve Black Ram whisky. It was good, solid bar with food available.
While in Veliko Tarnovo, we spent an afternoon wandering farther into the actual town, away from the fortress. I searched Google for ‘bakery’ and found a little dessert shop called Luchia. It’s a 20 minute walk from the tourist area of town but well worth it. We grabbed four small sweets and paid 2.50BGN. They also have cakes and coffee if you want to eat there. We took our sweets and walked towards the river and Park Sveta Gora. This park is a lovely area to wander through, but beware that to get to the heart of the park you have to climb about 346 stairs (I counted). At the top there are benches, picnic tables, and walking trails heading in all directions. There are also many types of playgrounds for children including rockwalls, a zipline, and jungle gyms galore.