My friend Rheanna and I spent two days on Santorini. We were skeptical about our visit because of the high profile of the island. We stayed in Fira because it is so centrally located and we had limited time on the island. It’s definitely not a beautiful town, but it worked for our needs. We stayed at the Fira Backpacker’s Place. We booked a private room through Airbnb.com. For $71USD a night, it is one of cheapest places to stay on the island.
The town of Oia is worth visiting and is the quintessential Greek town. If you are going for the day, I highly recommend going early in the morning before it gets too busy. Keep in mind it is incredibly expensive compared to other Greek islands and towns. The rest of the island has a lot to offer so don’t spend all your time and money there. We visited a few of the wineries (check opening hours if you’re there outside of the tourist season), hiking trails, and beaches. The bus system was very helpful, somewhat easy to use (with little help from the drivers), and was the only cheap thing on the island.
We used the buses to get to some of the wineries on the island as well. We took the bus towards the airport/Kamari. On the route back, it stops near the town of Exo Gonia. There are a handful of wineries that are walking distance from each other. We visited Art Space Winery and Estate Argyros as well as Artemis Karamolegos, which also has a restaurant. Here is a link that helped us find all of the wineries.
We took a ferry from Kea to Naxos. We had planned to stay five nights and use Naxos as a base camp to visit one or two of the small Cyclades Islands. Neither of these plans went accordingly. The first night we were there, we stopped into the travel agency (which is also where you buy ferry tickets). I asked about getting to and from one of the small Cyclades Islands. I was told that, at this time of year, I could not get to and from any of these islands (Iraklia, Schoinousa, Koufonisi, etc.) in the same day. When I tried to ask more questions, I was rebuffed and simply told no. This was not the helpful or positive information I was looking for. Then, on the fifth night of our stay, we discovered there would be a ferry strike for the next two days. However, between these two unfortunate pieces of information, we thoroughly enjoyed the island of Naxos.
We stayed in the Old Town at an Airbnb.com for about $89 a night. While this was more expensive than I would have liked, it was a great location. We felt like we were living in a piece of history as the apartment was built into a structure that is centuries old.
We found some amazing little restaurants and bars in the Old Town of Naxos. One such restaurant has a logo of two fat men drinking. Even though we had dinner there three times, I never learned the name of the restaurant, but it was consistently delicious and I can highly recommend the meatballs and the carbonara pasta. Follow the signs; you’ll be happy you did. We also frequented a bar called Elia. It is in the Old Town and has a red door. It may look closed, but keep trying. The wine options are lovely and not your average young, Greek wines, especially when it comes to the reds. Also, the bakeries around town, even near the port, are great spots to grab a filling snack like spanikopita for around 2-3€.
When we ventured out of the Old Town, we found Nostimon Hellas among many other shops and restaurants. The restaurant takes a creative spin on Greek food and the service was very friendly.
We rented a car for two days while on the island. We drove to a few other towns and spent an afternoon hiking between five towns. We used this link to plan one of the hikes.
The hiking route was well-marked once we were on the trail. When looking for other hiking trails and information on things to do around the island, these two websites were very helpful.
After a week on the mainland, my friend Rheanna and I returned the rental car to the airport and caught a bus to Lavrion. When I read online that you had to take a bus to the town of Markopoulos, I was concerned that we wouldn’t know where to catch the following bus to Lavrion. In actuality, it was quite easy. The bus stop for the KTEL (suburban buses) was outside the airport near the escalator that takes you up to the Metro line to the city. I also asked for help from the tourism booth inside the airport. Once we arrived at Markopoulos, we hung out and waited for the next bus. We weren’t at a bus station, just a corner in town where all the buses stop. The whole trip took under an hour, not the 2-2.5 hours that we were told. Check out this link for the bus schedule. I was surprised to find that the buses in Greece were on time consistently. I can’t say this would be true in high season, but it was in October.
We spent two nights on Kea in an Airbnb.com in the very small town of Otzias about 5.5km from the port town. We knew the buses were no longer running so we grabbed a taxi for 8€ to get there (after buying provisions in town).
In my opinion, Kea was too small to really need a car/pay for a rental car but being there longer without bus service would have been tough. We spent one day hiking the footpaths that, while not well marked, were enjoyable–taking us through pastures, over rock walls and fences, and sometimes into farmers’ backyards. The routes are marked, but we didn’t see any markers until a few hours into the hike. I used Google Maps and the location feature on my smartphone to help us along (thanks T-Mobile global coverage!). We hiked 2.5 hours up to the town of Ioulis, the capital of the island. It had more restaurants and shops then we expected, though a lot of them were closed this late in the year. We grabbed lunch and then headed down to the port town of Korissia. We grabbed an early and cheap dinner in Korissia (location coordinates 37.658647,24.311807). The gyros were 2€ each and the wine was cheap at 3€ for a half carafe.
In summary, I would recommend visiting Kea but before the buses stop running at the end in September. You could easily spend a few days hiking from town to town and swimming in the small bays around the island. Also, this site seemed to have the most accurate ferry schedule including the changes in low season.
After our Bulgarian adventures, we flew to Athens to meet our friend, Rheanna, for a few days of travel. We rented a car at the airport and headed for the town of Kalamata. We stayed in an apartment rented through Airbnb.com for $75USD a night. The apartment was a 10 minute drive to Kalamata’s town center and five minutes down to the beach. While it was hard to find, it had an amazing view.
While in town, we ate at the Oino Cafe. Three of us shared five small dishes and drank wine for about 10€ each. It was delicious and a great change from traditional Greek dishes.
Kalamata has a nice pedestrian area for shopping as well as a strip of bars and restaurants for hanging out at night. There are a handful of souvlaki shops with delicious pitas as well as very friendly staff. At about 5€ for a pita and a drink, they are great places for a good, cheap meal out. Kalamata definitely had lots to see and we definitely didn’t see if all. Check out the Kalamata page on Wikitravel.org for more information.
When my husband and I started researching Bulgaria, we were excited about all of the places to see and things to do. We were also delighted at the affordable prices on hotels, rental cars, and attractions. In fact, a lot of fortresses, monasteries, etc. were free to enter. Despite our research, we were shocked at how cheap the costs were once we were on the ground.
We had budgeted $70USD a night for hotels, guesthouses, and apartments on Airbnb.com. The actual cost per night was closer to $40USD. We had budgeted about $60USD per day for food and drinks for both of us; that was a high estimate. Our first few meal portions were so big that we started sharing meals. Instead of each ordering a main dish, we would split a meat dish, add a veggie, and a salad or soup and be completely full at the end. We ended up spending closer to $30USD a day on food and booze. And with bottled beer costing 2-3BGN, we felt like we hit the jackpot. For those who like whiskey (as I do), check out Bulgaria’s Black Ram whiskey. I tend to order it with a Coke. While it’s not served together like a cocktail, they do give a hefty pour of whiskey (50ml is considered the small portion) and a small bottle of Coke. On average, this drink order cost $4BGN; not bad for a good, stiff drink!
Having learned about 100 words of Bulgarian (including words for Bulgarian foods) definitely made the trip more affordable and enjoyable. Reading Cyrillic is difficult, but it helped us feel more comfortable walking into an establishment where an English menu or asking questions in English were not options. Furthermore, 100 words of Bulgarian definitely endeared us to locals more than having no Bulgarian words at our disposal (though I am sure we were embarrassing ourselves constantly).