A few weeks ago, my husband and I flew down to Oaxaca, Mexico for vacation. We had read that the food was amazing, the people were friendly, and the town was beautiful. All of these things were exactly true.
We spent four days and four nights in the city of Oaxaca before heading to the coast for a few days and then returning for a few more days in the city.
From the airport, we took the colectivo (small van or bus) instead of a taxi. You need buy a ticket inside the airport after you leave baggage claim. You also wait in the same line if you want to get a taxi. The cost is $80MXN per person. We learned the hard way that you cannot buy tickets from the driver or other employees outside of the airport.
On Friday and Saturday nights, there seem to be a lot of weddings at the Templo de Santo Domingo. I highly recommend hanging around this church in the late afternoon or early evening for some great people watching. This area comes alive in the evenings. Grab a drink with a view of the church and enjoy watching the Oaxacan wedding traditions unfold before you.
We went to Hue anticipating that we would check out the royal palace and visit a few of the tombs in the area. While we did end up doing these things, and they were enjoyable, the entrance fees for these sites were expensive in comparison to other things to do in Vietnam. If you purchased a ticket to only visit the royal palace the price is 180,000NVD. We chose to purchase the combination ticket of the royal palace and three tombs for 360,000VND per person.
Our first day in Hue, we visited the royal palace. It is an expansive, interesting site, but a lot of the buildings were being worked on during our visit.
The following day, we took a private boat to visit only the three tombs which were included in the ticket we had purchased; Tự Đức, Lăng Khải Định, and Minh Mạng. We were able to negotiate a price of $7USD per person for a private boat. There are numerous travel agencies throughout town. We checked out a few and negotiated as we went. We chose this option instead of paying 180,000VND per person for a bus tour to visit the three tombs and other sites. The entrance fee for each tomb is 100,000VND (though we had already paid for the combination ticket, saving ourselves 30,000VND per person) and the entrance fees for the other sites included in the tour cost on average 50,000 to 100,000VND per person. In addition to saving ourselves the extra entrance fees, we were able to tour the three tombs we wanted to see on our own schedule.
The private boat we took was fun, but the operator did hassle us to purchase lunch and soft drinks, to rent motor bikes once we got off the boat, and for just about anything else they could think of to try and make a little extra money. This was a little frustrating, but we just kept telling them no and they eventually got the point.
Lăng Khải Định is a 20-minute walk from the river’s edge. If you are on a group tour your transportation would be included but if you go on your own, like we did, the walk is a little far. Also, Lăng Khải Định is the most ornate (albeit the smallest footprint) of the three tombs.
In Hue, we stayed at the Sunny B hotel (not to be confused with their other hotels-Sunny A and Sunny C). We were able to negotiate the price down to 325,000VND per night for a triple room. Thought the room was dated, it had a nice balcony and a non-wet bathroom. Overall, it was a good room, a great location, and the staff was very welcoming and helpful.
Hue was a bigger city than we expected. While I was disappointed at how pricey the entrance fees were, the city made up for it with delicious food. We ate more than once in one particular area with a lot of street food and a small street-side market which was close to our hotel. This is where I ate the delicious soup called bún hen. For 20,000VND, this was definitely my favorite soup in Vietnam. The rice noodles (bún) are a little thicker than the rice noodles in phở and there were baby clams and roasted peanuts in the soup. When planning this trip, I found a blog entry about food in Hue. I found it really helpful and recommend checking it out for your visit.
After a couple of days in Ho Chi Minh City, we flew to Da Nang on Vietjet Air and grabbed a taxi to Hoi An. We had researched how to take a taxi or bus to the bus station in Da Nang and then hop on another bus headed to Hoi An, but once we did the math, it was only an extra few dollars for the three of us to take a taxi (410,000VND) and avoid the hassle of a bus station transfer.
We had planned to stay at the Hoi An Travel Lodge. It was on the higher end of our budget, but we were ready to try to negotiate the price down. Unfortunately, due to the Full Moon Lantern Festival being in full swing, the hotel was completely booked. We went in search of another comfortable, clean place to stay. We ended up at the Village Homestay on one of the smaller islands that makes up Hoi An. The room was spacious, had a small balcony, refrigerator, air conditioning, and cable TV. We were able to negotiate with the owners and paid 400,000VND per night. The family who runs the homestay was very helpful and really made us feel welcome.
After settling into our room, we walked around to scope out the town and, more importantly, the food. Many of the restaurants are more expensive than what we’d found in Saigon because Hoi An is a tourism hot spot. Ultimately, we were able to find some delicious, reasonably-priced restaurants both off the beaten path and right in the heart of the tourist area. We ate a lot of street food while we were there. Much like anywhere else in Vietnam, we would ask the price before we ordered just in case a high price was being quoted. We ate in the market a few times as well and found delicious phở and bún soups for about 20,000VND per bowl.
While in Hoi An, we did not visit any of the museums or cultural sites, so I can’t comment on them. We did, however, rent bicycles one day (20,000VND per bike) and it was the best decision we made in Hoi An. We looked at a map and found some nearby islands that were connected by bridges and rode around for most of the day enjoying the countryside and taking in its beauty. The only issue we had with the bike ride was when we stopped in a town to get lunch, we were routinely turned away or were quoted prices that were ridiculously high. I’m not sure why we receive this treatment but it definitely put us off. Thankfully, we had brought snacks with us and eventually did find a small restaurant that would serve us phở for a reasonable price.
In the evenings, we went looking for cheap drinks. We found a few places that were much cheaper than others and frequented these over other bars that were more centralized and more expensive. One bar called Chips ‘N Fish had super cheap “draft” beer. We figured that someone in town had a keg of beer and would dole the beer out to multiple restaurants. The beer was a little flat but for 4,000VND a glass, it would do (at least for awhile). The concept of happy hour has definitely caught on in Hoi An but the specials can range from 20% off to half price to a discount off drink prices so inflated that it’s not really a discount at all. Shop around before settling in.
In March of this year, my husband, Kyle, and I and our friend Rheanna snagged cheap tickets to Vietnam on China Eastern Airlines. We had never been to Southeast Asia, but were excited to jump in starting with Ho Chi Minh City (also known as Saigon). Since we were arriving in the middle of the night, we booked a hotel ahead of time. The Ailen Garden Hotel, located in District 1, was a great fit for us. Much like the hundreds of other budget friendly hotels in the area, it had a private bathroom, wifi, air conditioning, and no view. At $36USD a night for a triple room, it was definitely on the expensive side for our trip. Booking ahead of time definitely raised the price.
We spent the first few days wandering around the city trying not to get hit by motorbikes and cars. We visited the Ben Thanh Market, which was more touristy than we had hoped, and the Chinese Market, which ended up being more of a wholesale market than we thought it would be. We also checked out the War Museum and the Ho Chi Minh City Museum.
When we needed a break from the heat, we visited one of the local breweries in town. Pasteur Street Brewery Company offers six beers served in a small upstairs bar. We ordered the flight of beers and for around 175,000VND. It was expensive but tasty. We also visited The View Rooftop Bar on Bui Vien. The bar and restaurant has multiple floors, good drink prices (around 45,000VND for a mixed drink and 12,000VND for a local beer during happy hour), and cool breezes to help you unwind.
While in the city, we spent most of our time looking for delicious food and then eating that food. We didn’t have to look far when it came to street food and small restaurants. When choosing a place, we looked for busy spots and always asked for the prices up front if they weren’t posted. We ate phở, bún, meat on a stick, and every rice and meat dish we could find. We could usually find dishes between 25,000 and 45,000VND. When in doubt, we would check out the small streets (like alleyways) for delicious food. We ate a few times on one specific small street; To find it, look for an Indian restaurant called Taj Mahal . We ate at Taj Mahal one night when we needed a break from Vietnamese food, and then headed down that alleyway and ate whatever we could find that tickled our fancy already back in the mood for a local treat.
At night when we were ready to grab a drink or two, we headed to Bui Vien street. It’s a backpackers haven and a great place to find cheap drinks, but be cautious. We stuck to the small bars and restaurants with listed prices and red or blue chairs out front. There are definitely more expensive bars on this street and they are looking for a way to separate you from your money.